- Following up on a comment from the instructable article I wrote, I looked into Coroplast as a material instead of Polycarbonate. It turns out that Coroplast is actually polyproylene plastic, so I got educated on the Wikipedia article. This is definitely what I should have used.
- No degradation from water exposure.
- Resistance to corrosion and chmical leaching
- Resistance to imapact and freezing
- Can be joined with heat fusion rather then gluing
- Heat resistant
- Used to make filters in the .5 to 30 micron range, so I could possibly use plastic rather then steel mesh for the particle filters.
- Is commonly recycled (number '5')
- Inexpensive. $26.99 for a 6mm 4'X8' panel.
- Compare this to the $120 for the Polycarbonate
- Half the cost for the 3mm panel. For the cost of one Polycarbonate panel I could get 10 Coroplast panels without any of the problems of the Polycarbonate.
- I looked into plastic welding, which I am going to try rather then gluing. They are not super cheap, but not prohibitively expensive either. I have a new design idea that will eliminate, hopefully, all or most of the headaches with the manifold.
- Sent an email to the "Living on Earth" radio program on NPR, which has a segment called "Cool Fix for a Hot Planet". The were asking for user ideas, so I told them about mine. My email:
- Living on Earth,
my girlfriend just told me about your show and the "Cool Fix for a Hot Planet" segment. I have what I think is are two good ideas and wanted to share.
I think I have found a way to create very inexpensive solar thermal panel out of recycled plastic. This is a hard problem, because solar thermal panels get hot if not used, and plastic melts if it gets too hot. I have found an inexpensive way to build an efficient solar thermal panel that can turn itself off (not get hot) when not in use. The mechanism could be a fundamental innovation to solar thermal energy capture. (see my blog url below)
Since thermal energy can be used for both heating and cooling (heat can drive an absorption cooler for AC), and since heating and cooling account for the majority (65%) of the energy we consume and it is overwhelming driven by fossil fuels, finding a really cheap way for people to access solar thermal energy to heat and cool their home is fundamentally important.
The problem at hand is that we, as a world, need to find solutions to our energy problems, and these solutions are the same solutions that will solve the climate and sustainability problems. This is a serious time crunch! We have serious problems that need to be solved quickly. The only way this is going to happen is to find ways to get everybody working together on the same problems. This is how I intend to do this:
I have decided to make my whole process of trying to develop these panels public, from inception to production. Thus far my idea is only a spark of inspiration, a leaky prototype, and a partnership with two patent attorneys and my mother. My hope is to both get the help of the public and to inspire others to solve problems openly and using public participation. I think there are people out there with good ideas and little time, and people who may not be as creative (or have the time to be) but have expertise in all manners of areas. If an idea is good we need it fast. If an idea is bad, its flaws need to be found quickly. Egos, fear and greed need to get out of the way. If thousands of ordinary people across the world work together around ideas put forth by people not afraid to do so, the result will be extraordinary. innovation would happen so quickly! As an example, my idea requires that I be an expert on plastics, which I am not. However, I am willing to bet that there is a plastic engineer out there who wants to solve our climate/energy crises and who could offer advise that would take me years to acquire on my own. Likewise, it is possible that my idea just will not work for some reason that I cant see, but somebody else with expertise in a particular area could. We need solutions, not hype or fear of being wrong. I want to start this sort of open public innovation by putting forth my particle panel concept, which so far I believe to be (but it may not be!) a good solution.
Please check out my blog at:
http://www.particlepanels.com/
Like I said, I have only just begun.
Blue Skies,
Alex Nugent - I got a response that they may air it, but I don't know if that is their canned response or if they mean it:
- Dear LOE Listener,
Thank you for your comments. Living on Earth may use excerpts from your response in an upcoming listener letters segment. If you do not want us to use your name or letter, please respond to this email within 3 days. You may also call our listener line 800-218-9988 and leave a voice message, or call 617-629-3638 to speak with a member of our staff. - I came across a new company making polymer (plastic) solar thermal panels! Obviously very interested in how they solve the stagnation problem, I emailed them and got a good deal of information, although it was not totally straight forward. Here is what I found out
- On the question of stagnation, in PVT applications we circulate our cooling fluid through the collector winter and summer and our control system will simply dump the thermal load during the summer at night back through the collectors to always maintain a safe storage temperature with plenty of capacity to accomodate the next day of sun. Our thermal storage tanks are sized so that each panel has 40 liters (11 gallons of thermal storage per tank) . This is curious to me, because it means that if the power goes out, a circuit breaker flips, a pump failed, etc, then the system fails and the panels overheat. I called them on this and they explained:
- "We protect the enclosure by the open to atmosphere flow channels in the enclosure that mate via adhesive with collector plate. In our case our absorber is an aluminum sheet that is black anodized for corrosion protection on front and rear sides. Since we gravity feed the collector fluid from the top and the plumbing is not pressurized and open to atmosphere the following happens when the downward fluid flow stops. If there is sun incident on the collector air that is now in the collector is driven upward due to heating and out the vents that are part of the plumbing arrangement. The air to supply this thermosiphon effect comes from the storage tank or on the larger systems our pulse/recircualtion tank. The flow is sufficient enough to maintain a much lower stagnation temp. In order to gravity feed water unpressurized we developed as part of the flow pattern an effective air venting system that works well in moving air through the collectors. This is much different than the standard collector where the plumbing (small copper tubes) are closed to atmosphere in a presuurized arrangement thus have no potential to provide passive cooling. Typically the insulated box is well sealed which drives temperatures."
- So what they have done, I think, is simply cut air vents at the top of the panel to insure the panels stays cool. This is problematic, because it this effectively breaks the insulation and opens up a path for convective loss, which is very serious for bigger temperature differentials. As I understand it, convection heat loss is the reason vacuum tube panels are so much more efficient at higher temperature differentials (i.e when its really cold outside and you are trying to heat the water to to 120F. Consider that that the temperature outside is 0C, which it is here in Santa Fe in the winter. Now, if we want to heat our hot water to 50C (120F), that's a temperature differential of 50C. The power efficiency of a flat-panel collector drops by almost 50% between 20 and 50C differential. Check it out on Wikipedia. This is for standard panels without holes in the top to let air out. I can only image the heat loss of a panel at 50C temperature differentials with an open-atmosphere hole.
- It appears PowerPanel has "solved" the overheating problem by limiting the use of their panels to moderate climates. If its really hot there panels must be both vented and the pumps run 24/7 to cool them at night. In colder climates, the efficiency seems like it must drop off really quickly. The reason why this is not really such a bad thing is that they also integrate photovoltaic in the panels. I have asked for an efficiency plot, which will show the efficiency of thermal absorption at various temperature differentials. We will see if they will send it to me.
- Since they are also meshing photovoltaic with thermal, I think the above limitations may work in niche areas considering it also provides some electricity. However, I am only further encourage that the particle panel concept is something that is really needed right now.
- They also told me their panels were made from polypropylene, so I am on the right track:
- Plastic Portion of our panel is constructed from TPO (Thermoplastic Olephin) It is basically Polyproplylene mixed with EPDM (synthetic rubber) Part of enclosure is EPP (expanded polyproylene) foam that backs the TPO providing structure and insulation all in one package. All components are rated for the temperatures anticipated with a stagnant collector and we have the TPO formulated with significant UV stabilizers so that the sun does not break it down over time.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Polypropylene, Power Panels and NPR
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I have read your blog and another one you commented on about using Coroplast for thermal collector panels with great interest. One thing that concerns me as it relates to your particle panel idea is that Coroplast is at best a translucent white, similar to a plastic milk jug. This may block much of the light trying to get through to the particles to absorb the heat. I believe they can add pigments, but all the colored panels I saw are opaque, not translucent.
ReplyDeleteI think Coroplast is an excellent material for a collector mainly because of it's higher temperature tolerance. My wife tested baking a sample at 250 degrees F and it came out feeling just about as rigid as normal. We also filled it with water and put it in the freezer and it did not deform from the ice.
I am however concerned about freezing problems, more due to glued joints at the ABS pipe at the top and bottom of an assembled panel bursting. I am therefor planning to build a drainback system using these panels, and just painting it black.
I also saw that polypropylene does not tolerate UV light well and will become brittle and break after long exposure. Coroplast can however be made special order with a UV absorber mixed in with the polypropylene. I am getting some regular Coroplast from a local sign shop that does not have the UV protection, so I'm looking into paints that absorb the UV.
John,
ReplyDeleteVery good points. I am also worried about coroplast not being clear enough. I ordered some sample "clear" sheets to see exactly what they are like. If they are not in fact clear I'll have keep searching. If only polycarbonate did not degrade in hot water...
As far as gluing the joints, from what I have read DON'T GLUE! Weld the joints. This is what i plan on doing for the next version. I just bought a plastic welder, which is nothing more then a glorified heat gun with some special attachments (~$200). What should result is a solid joint that is as strong or stronger then the material. I am out the door on another business trip, but when I get back my test sheets of coroplast should have arrived and I am going to try out the plastic welder.
I would be very careful about assuming coroplast is going to hold up to the high temperatures, unless you purposely under-insulate the panels. My goal is to use these panels for heating my house in the winter, which is going to require solid insulation/glazing. From my reading stagnation temperatures can get up to 180C(356F) for well insulated panels in stagnation temperatures, which is 20C over the melting point of polypropylene. Your choice of 250F (121C) is under the melting point, but not under worst-case stagnation temperatures (for well insulated panels)
I also came across the UV problems with coroplast. My plan is to glaze the panels with a UV-protected plastic, probably multi-wall polycarbonate as is used for greenhouses, and back the panel with foam.
Please keep me informed on the progress of your project.
Thanks for noting the stagnation temperatures. I looked but could not find what they might reach. I forgot to mention in my first post I'm thinking about using simple automotive thermostats to vent the panel enclosure when it gets too hot inside. They typically come in 180 degree versions which is about what is needed but other values are also easily available. I thought about this after reading the response that company emailed you about how they handle stagnation in power outage scenarios. Seems like a good compromise, better than leaving it vented all the time.
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